Wednesday, January 31, 2007

The Men beside the Becak



Some new Meulabohites compare travel in a becak to a ride at an amusement park. The carriages are brightly colored, they move at rapid speeds (most of the time) and there is almost always excitement as the becak driver dodges potholes and oncoming traffic.

But what do we really know about the men navigating Meulaboh’s beloved becaks? My Meulaboh recently sat down with three of Meulaboh’s finest becak drivers—Yahya, 42, Busri, 29, and Agus, 32 – to learn more about this profession.

Dedication and a love of driving are the critical elements in a successful becak career. Our featured drivers reported that 12 hour days are not uncommon and they often work seven days a week, even through the rain. The long daily hours are especially good business sense for those drivers who rent their becaks for approximately Rp. 30,000 per day. Those drivers who own their becak (costs range from Rp. 8 to 18 million) also need dedication to maximize the return on their investment. In either case, a hardworking becak driver can expect a daily profit of about Rp. 40,000.

Yahya, Busri, and Agus also discussed the legal dynamics of driving a becak. There are two key requirements. First, becak drivers must have a license. Although there is no written or driving exam they must pass, they do have to pay a license fee of approximately Rp. 200,000. Second, since the start of 2007 becak drivers are required to wear helmets – failure to do so can result in a fine at police check points. Passengers, on the other hand, are not required to wear helmets, nor have they ever requested one—in these drivers experience.

Busri, who has driven a becak since he was 15, has seen many changes in the industry, in addition to helmet laws. The most significant change has occurred since the tsunami. Before 2005, almost all becaks in Meulaboh were bicycle powered, but these have almost completely given way to motorbikes. Despite years of bicycle becaking, Busri, too, felt the need to adapt to the motorcycle to keep up with the competition. Although an expensive change for Basri, he didn’t hesitate to say, “I prefer the motorbike.” He also shared that before the tsunami passengers never used to negotiate a fare before a ride, but now he says it is much better to finalize a fare beforehand to avoid misunderstandings.

Agus has only been a becak driver for 3 months and considers the requirements to be no problem at all—he’s a modern and innovative becak driver. Agus studies people’s travel patterns and conveniently arrives before people even know they need a becak. While other drivers slow down by the market and bus stop looking for passengers, Agus said he prefers to cruise by Top CafĂ©, Mie Kocok, and Hong Kong, ready to swoop up the humanitarian workers as soon as they pay their bill. Smiling, Agus proudly shared, “I’m the only becak driver with this strategy.” But most importantly, Agus says that customer service is critical. Therefore, he makes it a point to remember passengers’ names, talk about life with them, and to always make them feel safe by driving cautiously.

For different reasons, all three men said they are happy with their job as a becak driver. Yahya, a former farmer, is grateful for the steady income. Basri enjoys getting to be “the boss of his own business” and never having to worry about being absent. Agus enjoys the relationships formed during the short rides, “I like to meet new customers and make new friends.”

The three agreed, though, that the life of a becak driver does have its challenges. According to Yahya, Basri, and Agus, the most stressful aspect of driving a becak is navigating the potholes in rainy season, avoiding collisions, and competing with the rapidly increasing number of becak drivers on the road.

“Have you ever seen an expat drive a becak?” I asked the three of them. Each shook his head no. However, when I inquired if I could rent and drive a becak for a day, they each chuckled, nodded vigorously and said, “Boleh!” For that ride, you might want to wear a helmet!

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