Lake Toba’s Little Cousin: Danau Laut Tawar Takengon

By Ahyoni


Are you tired of going to the beach every weekend? Are you eager to explore more of the Acehnese culture and its natural beauty? Well, it’s time to get motivated and begin experiencing Aceh – inside and out.

I recommend visiting Danau Laut Tawar Takengon (Takengon Tasteless Sea Lake). If you look at a map of Aceh, you will see a lake in the middle of the province – this is Takengong. Hopefully the following information will help you discover the highlights of this destination.

To begin, there is no public transportation from Meulaboh to Takengon so a rental car is necessary. The trip is about five hours—50% is paved roads, 30% is under construction, and the remaining 20% is gravel. Most of the ride is mountainous and there are no repair shops or gas stations along the road until you reach Takengon. Therefore, I recommend traveling in a convoy and bringing essential mechanical tools with you—just in case!

The ride is beautiful! About two hours outside of Meulaboh you will see the magnificent coastline of West Aceh. Once in the mountains, view the winding rivers and forest stretching as far as your eyes can see. Don’t forget to try the local fruits along the way, such as pineapple in Blang Bebangka, Rujak or typical fruit salad in Bies and durian in Rongka.

When you arrive in Takengon, here are a few recommendations to get you started on a great getaway:

If you love the water, visit Atu Telak Bintang and Tanyor Nunguk – both are fantastic places to swim or jump in the water and enjoy the surrounding nature. Another option is to get on a speed boat for Rp. 5,000 (per person), sail the lake and enjoy the beauty surrounding the lake.

Or, if you prefer to stay on land, you can take a leisurely drive around the entire lake and enjoy all of the magnificent views from the lookout points in about 2 hours.

Perhaps a hot bath sounds more appealing than a swim. If that’s the case, enjoy a relaxing bath at Wih Pesam (Hot Springs) for only Rp. 1,000 (per person). This spring water is believed to be able to cure all skin diseases (approximately 20 km from town).

If you’re interested in legends and folklore, I’d recommend visiting Atu Belah (Split Stone) at Penarun. Here you can see the legendary monument of the Gayo tribe. The legend goes that a mother was swallowed by a stone and the child feels guilty. Local people believe that if a certain sorrowful chant is sung, the stone will split open, but so far no one has been brave enough to do it. Who knows? Maybe you can finally release her!

Finally, don’t forget to bring oleh-oleh back to Meulaboh! Choose your ethnic Kerawang Gayo souvenirs and accessories with typical Gayo paintings at the souvenir shops in town.

Not only is there a lot to see and do in Takengon, it’s also fun to experience a different culture in town. The people are fashionable, the traffic is easy to navigate and the people are so polite and friendly. There are also many places to eat but the most famous restaurant is Gayo Bersemi – Idola Resto. They serve typical Indonesian cuisine, but with local flavors. Try the juices and baked duck while you’re there! Oh, and you must have a cup of coffee Arabica while in Takengon– the town is famous for it!

Because my trip to Takengon was last minute, I didn’t have the opportunity to stay in the luxurious Hotel Renggali right on the lake, but it’s very popular. Therefore, if you’re hoping to stay at Hotel Renggali, I recommend booking early as it fills up quickly.

But wherever you choose to stay and whatever highlights you choose to enjoy, you’re sure to have a quiet and relaxing weekend getaway at Danau Laut Tawar Takengon.

Directions: Take the Nagan Raya road and keep heading straight to Jeuram. About twenty minutes from the Jeuram Dam turn left on the road leading to Beutong. If you pass Beutong you are heading in the right direction. There is no other cross or T junction so stay on this road until you reach Takengon. However, on the way back to Meulaboh you need to be careful. After you exit the town of Takengon, you will find a T junction and you have to make sure to take the road on your right (although it looks like a rough road, don’t be fooled into taking the better looking road on the left side without a road sign). Remember, there aren’t any restaurants along the way so bring snacks! One last note: the first village you will reach on your way to Takengon is about two and half hours from Meulaboh and this will be your first chance to use a restroom.

Hotel Renggali
Jl. Takengon – Bintang
Phone (0643) 21144, Takengon
Room rates: Standard Rp. 250,000, Deluxe Rp. 300,000, Suite Rp. 550,000

A Sunday Excursion: The Krueng Isep River

My weekends in Meulaboh are fairly predictable. They usually include at least one meal at Café Mulia Hati, the beach, visiting with friends, a DVD, and catching up on emails. Yet last weekend I felt adventurous and decided to explore life beyond the town limits. I heard rumors about a good swimming river in Nagan Raya and after only minor convincing, it became the Sunday destination of a small group of Meulabohites.

It was a beautiful drive toward the mountains and our anticipation grew as the roads became windier. Pulling up to the bridge and descending down the steep hill, we quickly realized that a few hundred other people had the same Sunday destination in mind. Motorcycles and scores of children lined the rocky banks and the narrow shade under the bridge was packed with picnickers.

As we scanned the river bank for an available spot of shade we noticed a patch of grass and a few trees on the other side. We strapped on our backpacks and began to slowly wade across.

Although the river didn’t appear to be moving swiftly from the shore, the force of the water was deceiving, nearly knocking me over on several occasions. With my cooler in had, I had visions of Oreo Cookies and cans of Pocari Sweat floating downstream as I worked to balance myself. But after persevering, our group managed to reach the other side, wet from our waists down, and grateful that none of us ended up crawling ashore.

Our shaded patch of grass was actually quite pleasant—we found the riverside tranquility we were hoping for! We laid out our blankets, opened our cooler, enjoyed the scenery (and some dry Oreos) for about 30 minutes before the dark clouds moved in and the rain drops began falling. We watched the motorcycles drive away, but we remained put, unwilling to give up our hard earned patch of grass. But as the drops became heavier, we were, once again, in water up to our waists, wading slowly back across the river.

For my husband, however, the trip to the river was not complete without participating in the cliff jumping the locals seemed to be enjoying. He persuaded a teenager to show him the way. The young man scurried up the path and did a perfect swan dive into the river 3 meters below. My husband, not quite as gracefully, scrambled up to the launching spot, and then began sliding down the muddy path towards the water. He managed to flail himself into the river, feet first, just before slipping over the edge. But he emerged from the water with a smile and we cheered for him from inside our dry car.

Driving away we noted that the river may not be the idyllic Meulaboh getaway, but the drive was pleasant, the water was refreshing and it was an adventure. Plus, now we know where most of Nagan Raya goes on Sundays. Would we recommend it to friends in Meulaboh? It doesn’t compare with the beauty of the beaches, but if you’re looking for a little excursion and don’t mind sharing the river with a few hundred other day-trippers, it may be worth checking out. Perhaps Provash, one of Meulaboh’s newest expats, sums it up best, “It’s a decent little place.”

Directions to the Krueng Isep River (Buetung Sub-district, Nagan Raya): Driving towards the airport, turn left at Langkak. Continue on to Simpang Peut, where the road turns to the right for Blang Pidie, but instead of turning right, continue traveling straight. At the Jeuram Market, the main road curves to the right and you will continue to follow it until the Beutung Market where you’ll turn left. The paved road starts a gentle, winding climb into the foothills and you will arrive at the river shortly—you can’t miss it. Total driving time is approximately 90 minutes from Meulaboh.