Sunday's Second Round: The Bupati Run-off Elections

On Sunday morning, 4 March, the towns and villages in Aceh Barat will be bustling as 80,000 voters are expected to cast their ballot for Bupati between 8 – 12 p.m. Last December residents punched their voting card for their preferred Bupati candidate, but with a total of 10 men running no single candidate earned 25% of the needed votes. This Sunday will be the official “second round” and voters will have their choice between the top two Bupati candidates – Ir. H. Iskandar and Ramli—both Independents.

This election is history in the making, marking the first time the residents of Aceh Barat will directly elect their Bupati. Previously in Aceh people voted for their preferred party and the party appointed the Bupati. But according to Meulaboh native, Pepen, voters said this process was “like buying a cat in a box” (seperti beli kucing dalam karung) – you just didn’t know what you’re going to get. Not surprising, voters were apathetic and turnout was low.

But Pak Mahrizal, Head of the Election Committee, KPU (Komite Pemilihan Umum), was proud to say that over 80% of registered voters turned out to cast their ballot in December. Mahrizal hopes there will be an equally good turnout for Sunday’s run-off election. “We’re telling the community, ‘Please use your vote, even though your candidate may not be on the ballot. Your vote influences the future of Aceh Barat.’” In order to vote, one needs only to be 17 years old or married and to have registered with his/her village head 6 months prior to the date of the election.

After the votes have been cast, the real excitement begins. Starting at 2 p.m. all ballots will be counted by hand at the 461 polling stations and, depending on voter turnout, counting can take anywhere from 3 - 6 hours. To make this process as transparent and fair as possible, each candidate is allowed to have one representative per polling station to ensure that all ballots are counted accurately.

Mahrizal proudly stated that last December Aceh Barat was applauded for having one of the most peaceful election processes in Aceh; he expects Sunday to be no different. Over 500 additional police officers, from various districts in Aceh, arrived on Thursday and will assist with election security.

So how can non-native Meulabohites support this election and moment in history? Mahrizal said all Meulaboh visitors can show their support by “helping to keep the elections peaceful.” And perhaps on 14 March we can congratulate Aceh Barat when their new Bupati, elected directly by the people, is announced.

A Valentine's Poem

By Dewi Elyana

Cinta dapat membuat kita tertawa
Cinta dapat membuat kita tersanjung
Namun cinta juga dapat membuat kita menangis

Mencintai tak pernah mengharapkan balasan
Mencintai terkadang membutuhkan perngorbanan
Mencintai terkadang tak selalu untuk bersama

Dicintai dengan tulus meluluhkan dinginnya hati
Dicintai dengan ikhlas melupakan kegalauan hidup
Dicintai dengan penuh pengertian adalah suatu anugrah

Cinta, mencintai dan dicintai
Terkadang harus melawati berbagai proses
Cinta, mencintai dan dicintai
Terkadang tanpa ada awal dan akhir

Aceh Welcomes New Governor at Sacred Site

Monday, 12 February, was a day of excitement and hope in Aceh Barat as Irwandi Yusuf, Aceh’s new governor, addressed the Acehnese people from the sacred site of Teuku Umar’s grave in Kaway XVI. The timing and site of the speech were significant. Teuku Umar, the revered Achenese war hero, was killed by the Dutch off Suak Ribee on 11 February 1899. The governor’s presence also brought attention to the upcoming Aceh Barat Bupati electons scheduled for 4 March.

Hundreds gathered on Monday morning eager to learn more about this former GAM member’s vision for Aceh. Irwandi stood poised before the crowd and emphasized his determination to balance the development of both the east and west coasts of Aceh. Many applauded when he declared a “War on Corruption” in Aceh and stressed that he will not be living in the luxurious governor’s house, but will continue living in his family’s home and driving his own modest car. And he reassured many when one TNI official, during the question and answer period, said, “Don’t sell this country to foreigners,” and Irwandi replied, “I fought for this country for a long time, not because I want to sell this land, but because I want to save this land.”

Eight candidates ran for the seat of governor of Aceh in December. Few anticipated that any candidate would receive 25% of the vote, the amount needed to prevent a run-off election. Winning the seat with 38.2% of the votes, Irwandi’s outright victory was unexpected. Imam Ferry offered this insight, “The Achenese people were looking for a change. Many people were feeling hopeless about their situation.” By the outpouring of support on Monday, it seems many are optimistic that Irwandi’s victory will mark the beginning of a new era for Aceh.


For those who are interested in learning more about a past era, Teuku Umar’s grave is an important destination. It is located less than an hour’s drive from Meulaboh. Stay on the road to Kaway XVI for approximately 40 kilometers and you’ll see a gate marking the entrance on your left. Don’t let the short trek from the parking area to the memorial site deter you; the peaceful and lush surroundings are worth the walk. While there, make sure to visit the natural spring as the fresh water is believed to be holy. According to local custom, you may wash your face with this spring water and make a wish, bathe with it to cleanse yourself of impurities or use it as a treatment for better health. Also, it is common for Muslims to read the Quran and offer a prayer for Teuku Umar.

More on Teuku Umar…

(retrieved from www.asnlf.net/asnlf_int/acheh/history/teuku_umar/teuku_umar.htm)

Teuku Umar (1854-1899) was a chief in Aceh, northern Sumatra, Indonesia. At various times, he fought against and alongside the Dutch colonial invaders. As head of the village of Datar, Teuku Umar fought against the Dutch from 1873, when they first tried to conquer Aceh. In 1893, Teuku Umar went over to the Dutch side. The Dutch took him into their service and made him commander of a legion of 250 friendly Acehnese soldiers. The Dutch governor regarded him as a trustworthy ally, but Teuku Umar used this opportunity to build up a more powerful position for himself. In 1896, he and his soldiers deserted the Dutch and went back to the Acehnese side. The Dutch pursued him for nearly three years. In January 1899, a force under Governor van Heutsz ambushed and killed Teuku Umar at Meulaboh on the west coast of Aceh.

Meulaboh Goes Global

When India Megha hoisted up its banner on Jl. Nasional January 2006 my husband was excited. I was cautious. The previous week I had spotted a sign that read “Italy” on Jl. Nasional and was more than a bit disappointed to discover they weren’t serving pasta; instead they had an abundance of mosquito spray. It turns out my husband was right – Indian Megha was worth getting excited about. For several months this restaurant served Indian food, right here in Meulaboh. Now, whenever I pass restaurants and stores with names like Bombay, Hollywood Photo, Hong Kong Seafood, and Brunei, I’m intrigued. So, to find out just how international these restaurants and stores truly are the “My Meulaboh” team did a little investigating.

Take this brief quiz to gauge your knowledge of Meulaboh’s internationally named locales.

1. When asked why a Meulaboh restaurant is named after the Indian metropolis of nearly 13 million people, formerly known as Bombay, owner Hangky Randy said:
A) He makes a mean masala dosa.
B) He used to own a restaurant in Bombay.
C) He likes cooking with bawang bombay (onions).
D) He was inspired to name his restaurant as a tribute to the Bollywood films he loved to watch as a senior high school student.

2. Rostina and her husband decided to name their photo shop and stationery store Hollywood Photo because:
A) Their relatives own a Hollywood Photo in Banda Aceh and it is a chain store.
B) It’s Rostina’s dream to move to Hollywood and star in a movie with Tom Cruise.
C) On the wall behind the cash register is a photo of Rostina’s nephew in front of the famous Hollywood sign in California.
D) In the back room you can dress up like you’re a Hollywood celebrity and have your photo taken – preferred costumes are Sylvester Stallone and Cher.

3. Naming this popular restaurant on Jl. Teuku Umar Hong Kong Seafood seemed appropriate because:
A) The mie goreng special comes with a bowl of shark fin soup
B) The family is originally from Hong Kong
C) The father was a chef in an international hotel and worked with people from Hong Kong
D) Meulaboh reminded them of their summer vacation 1998 to Hong Kong

4. When asked why the owner named this electronic and appliance store after the tiny country on the northern coast of the island of Borneo, Brunei, the manger responded:
A) All the appliances come from Brunei.
B) The owner is from a town named Beureuneun, he shortened it and that’s how the store got its store name –Brunei.
C) During negotiations with a customer from Brunei, the customer said he’d buy the refrigerator if the owner named the store after his country.
D) Actually, the country was named after the store.

Answers
1. D. Hangky Randy was inspired to name his restaurant as a tribute to the Bollywood films he loved to watch as a senior high school student. “My favorite film was ‘Salmankhan,’” he laughed. No, Hangky does not know how to prepare Indian food, nor has he ever been to this country famed for its cuisine, but he claims Bombay Restaurant has been serving up a fantastic plate of nasi goreng for over 12 years. True, you may not be able to order that mango lassi you’re craving, but according to Hangky, the nasi goreng spesial with shrimp and chicken won’t disappoint you. “And it’s very cheap,” he added.

2. A. Hollywood Photo owner, Rostina, has never had a Hollywood celebrity develop photos at her store. The store got its name because relatives in Banda Aceh have a Hollywood Photo shop and they helped Rostina and her husband to open their own Hollywood Photo in Meulaboh. While they don’t take Hollywood photos in the back room, they do print photos starting at Rp. 1,000 in addition to printing t-shirts with photos. And no, Rostina isn’t dreaming of going to Hollywood any time soon, but she does enjoy watching films with Al Pacino and Tom Hanks.

3. C. According to Sunsun, 27, of Hong Kong Seafood, no one in his family is actually from Hong Kong. Sunsun’s father used to work as a head chef in an international hotel in Kalimantan and it was there that he worked with people from Hong Kong. The interactions he had and the foods he learned to make encouraged him to name his own restaurant Hong Kong Seafood. Although Sunsun’s family is from Jakarta, they do serve a few popular Chinese dishes, such as Cap Cai Goreng, (stir-fried vegetables) Fu Yung Hai (Chinese omelet) and Sapo Tahu (tofu soup). But if you’re really craving something special from Hong Kong, Sunsun said this can be arranged. For Rp. 2,000,000 a Hong Kong feast for five will be prepared. This has yet to be ordered, but you’re welcome to be the first!

4. B. Brunei is indeed an interesting name for an electronic and appliance store in Meulaboh. “Do any of your products come from Brunei?” I asked the manager. He shook his head, “Medan.” “Has anyone who works at the shop ever been to Brunei?” I continued. Again, he shook his head. “It’s like this,” he told me. He pulled out a piece of paper and wrote “Beureuneun.” Apparently, the owner is from a town in Sigli named Beureuneun, he shortened it and that’s how they got its store name –Brunei. The manager assured me there is no connection between the country and the store, except for the fact that there are probably electronic appliance stores in Brunei, as well. If you are interested in going to Brunei – the one on Jl. Nasional—take a look at their freezers and TVs—these are the best selling items.

Ready, Set, Cook! Café Mulia Hati’s 2nd Annual Cooking Competition

The competition was fierce as Meulaboh’s finest chefs competed for the prize of “Best Team Cooking” Wednesday afternoon at Café Mulia Hati. Two “junior” groups (students at Café Mulia Hati) and two “senior” groups (graduates of Café Mulia Hati) went head to head preparing chicken burritos, salads, smoothies, muffins, meatballs, carrot cake, and, of course, everyone’s favorite menu item – thin crust pizza. The teams arrived Wednesday morning, not knowing what they would be required to cook and with only three hours to prepare their assigned menu. Yes, on Wednesday morning the kitchen at Café Mulia Hati heated up quickly.

Not only were the cooks nervous, but the judges also felt the pressure. Faisal (UNDP) and Erwin, two of the judges, discussed pre-taste testing strategies. For Erwin, it was all about “finding his focus,” while Faisal reminded Erwin not to forget about the style. The two other judges, Beth Parker (Café Mulia Hati Volunteer) and Ibu Wati (Café Mulia Hati Cooking Supervisor) discussed the difficulties of being a judge as they work side by side these women. “It’s all good,” Beth said admiring the many dishes carefully displayed on the competing tables.

The junior groups shared that the carrot cake was the most time consuming dish they had to prepare. Typically, it takes about an hour and a half to make a carrot cake from start to finish. Although the senior teams were not required to prepare the well-loved carrot cake, they were given a new challenge – to make a chocolate heart especially for Valentine’s Day. It seems they mastered this challenge as Judge Erwin kept going back for more, “just to make sure,” Erwin said.

At long last the taste testing winded down, the trophy pans and recipe books were displayed and the winning teams were announced. Teams B and C screamed with delight as Ibu Wati declared their teams to be the 2007 winners. For Team C, their secret to success was, “Careful preparation, working well together, and having a clean table.”

Delicious food was enjoyed by all Wednesday afternoon at Café Mulia Hati, but the true spirit of the event was evident in the laughter shared and the joyful smiles of the chefs. Not only is this café is a special place for its loyal patrons, but also for the women who work there. As graduate Ibu Zubeda said, “I love and miss Café Mulia Hati.”

Surf's Up, Meulaboh!

It doesn’t matter if it’s Bali, Hawaii, Australia or Meulaboh – if there are waves, they will surf. At least, this is the philosophy of our surfing Meulabohites. According to Bonnie (Right to Play), “Meulaboh may not have the best waves, but at least they are better than no waves.”

Commitment is key to surfing in Meulaboh. Bringing a surfboard to Meulaboh is not an easy task and finding transportation to the elite surfing beach in town, “Prison Beach,” (PB) can be a bit of a chore. But these factors haven’t deterred Meulaboh’s devoted surfers. There are surfboards here from around the world (the “My Meulaboh” staff counted 8) and they’re getting good use from the experienced and novice, alike.

You’re not likely to observe Meulaboh’s faithful surfers riding the waves in Suak Ribee, but as you’re driving toward Nagan Raya, near the site of the old prison, you may see familiar faces perched atop the waves. Co-workers and housemates, Bonnie and Brittany hit the surf at least every Sunday and often mid-week, too. In fact, it’s not unusual for these friends to be surfing by 7 a.m. and arrive at work invigorated for the day.

Others, like Alex (CRS), are hoping to find “a nexus of surfing folks” interested in making regular treks out to PB. When asked how often he surfs, Alex responded, “Once a month. But I’d like to make it three times a week.”

For Meulaboh’s surfers much of the attraction to the sport is the challenge. Bonnie noted it’s the hardest sport she’s ever done, “The medium moves and so many factors have to come together at one time." It's definitely not a sport for everyone, but if you’re up for the challenge, Meulaboh’s surfers agree – there is little that compares to the thrill of catching a wave.

If you’ve never balanced on a surfboard and always wanted to learn how – there’s good news. Meulaboh is an ideal – okay, a pretty good — place to learn. Despite the 20 minute drive out of town, Prison Beach is regarded as a decent spot for novices. The waves are typically small (1 - 2 feet) and the rip is not nearly as strong and dangerous as the beaches right in Meulaboh. In fact, several Meulabohites, like Alex, picked up surfing at Prison Beach with a few lessons from the pioneer Meulaboh surfers from AID4. Brittany is also learning at PB and even noted that the water there is actually warmer than in Bali.

In order to learn, however, Meulaboh’s surfers agreed that three things are necessary — to be a strong swimmer, to have a great deal of patience and to know how to paddle hard. As Brittany notes, “If you can paddle out to the waves, you’ve won half the battle.” So if you think you hear the waves calling, and would love a lesson or two, Bonnie has agreed to teach upon request. Her surfboard, however, is not ideal for beginners and she asks that surfing students bring a large board (between 7’ – 8’).

Although you may be hard pressed to find a surfboard on Jl. Nasional, there are boards available in Nias, Bali, and even Banda Aceh. Used boards are also a great option for the beginning surfer – a decent used board can be bought in Nias for about Rp. 700,000 (+ shipping). But whenever purchasing a board, make sure you go with someone who knows surfboards—selecting an appropriate board can be tricky.

Whether you just want to try out surfing for the novelty, you intend to become a world class surfer, just remember the cardinal rule of surfing, shared by Alex, “Surfing is not just an activity, it’s a way of life.”

To contact Bonnie about surfing lessons, please email her at bmcpike@gmail.com

There's Something About Solly

Its cork-screw tail, squinty eyes, and unusually long hind legs make it a very unique looking pet. But Brenda doesn’t mind that Solly may not be Meulaboh’s most beautiful feline; it’s her adopted cat.

“I noticed a little cat running around the office and I thought it would be nice to have a pet,” Brenda reflected, describing why she decided to adopt Solly. “Plus, it was the first cat I could catch,” she added laughing.

When she brought this stray kitten home last April it could hardly open either eye. In fact, whether or not it even had two eyes was a major point of discussion amongst Brenda’s friends. Despite its oddities, she was determined to nurse it back to health with eye drops, a little food and a lot of love.

For months she faithfully applied the drops, but they didn’t seem to be working. Although it has become “a robust little cat,” even today its eyes aren’t much better. It bumps into walls, is scared of shadows, and Brenda suspects, every now and again, it suffers from minor concussions from the repeated banging of its head.

Not surprisingly, this stress for Solly creates what Brenda refers to as his “dual personalities.” At times it is a very affectionate cat and loves being close to Brenda, even waiting patiently outside the shower until she’s finished. At other times, however, its personality is less than charming and appears to be “possessed,” known to take flying leaps at Brenda’s houseguests.

Nevertheless, Brenda focuses on its more endearing traits. In fact, she shared that Solly has amazing acrobatic skills. Apparently, this cat can perform impressive back flips and even standing high jumps!

Yet Solly’s days as an uncomfortable and stressed cat may be behind it. This week a veterinarian from Mercy Corps, Dr. Surya, began treating Solly. He confirmed that the cat does, in fact, have two eyes, but one is considerably smaller than the other and suffers serious nerve damage. Solly won’t ever be able to see out of that eye, but if the treatment works properly, it will be a much more comfortable cat, indeed.

Having Dr. Surya in Meulaboh is not only a great relief to Brenda, but will also be reassuring to other pet owners who are accustomed to having a veterinarian in town. While Dr. Surya’s primary mission in Meulaboh is to work with livestock, he’s agreed to treat local pets on Saturdays and Sundays. Because of his experience at an animal clinic in Jakarta and even as a dog trainer, Dr. Surya feels comfortable working with both large and small animals.
Noting that his work with Mercy Corps is full-time and that any private services he provides are on his own time, Dr. Surya suggests that pet owners could pay for the medicine he purchases and provide him with a modest donation of Rp 50,000 to make a house call. But, even if you never end up calling Dr. Surya, you may want to heed his primary advice to all pet owners in Meulaboh: have your pet vaccinated for rabies.

Brenda is looking into having Solly vaccinated, and at the same time, she’s starting to think about where Solly will live when she leaves Meulaboh. While she doesn’t intend to leave Meulaboh in the near future, she knows it will be difficult to say good-bye to this unique little cat when her assignment is complete. But for now, she’s focused on providing Solly with the best care available and ensuring her houseguests know about its flying leaps.

Rice Fields: An Investigative Look

Rice hasn’t always been the major staple of my diet, but since moving to Meulaboh it’s rare for a day to pass without my rice cooker’s red light turned on. Yet I know so little about the rice fields surrounding this town, other than they provide my major source of nourishment and make beautiful backdrops for bike rides.

To inform myself and the My Meulaboh readers about this essential livelihood, I spoke with Jamali and two other rice farmers from Ujong Drien as they took a break under a thatched hut.

Only 34 years old, Jamali has been a rice farmer for 20 years now. Seven days a week and up to nine hours a day he cultivates his rice fields on his rented hectare (2.2 acres) of land. Rice farming is a tradition in Jamali’s family and he is honored to follow in the path of family members who came generations before him. According to Jamali, “Farming makes my soul happy.”

Sitting with his colleagues, Jamali proudly points out that the Ujong Drien rice farmers no longer use the traditional cangkul (a tool similar to a hoe) to farm. For over a year now they have been using modern machinery, thanks to the assistance of Mercy Corps. Although this group of farmers must share the donated equipment, the men agreed that sharing is never a problem.

Instead, what poses the greatest difficulty for these farmers is the reality that their rice fields no longer produce what they used to. If circumstances were perfect, they would be able to harvest three crops a year. Unfortunately, the tsunami changed these ideal conditions and now the fields produce only two crops a year. Apparently, the tsunami brought great amounts of debris and sand into their fields and also increased the salinity. Now, nearly 20 months later, they’re still not harvesting what they did pre-tsunami. Despite these challenging conditions, Jamali still expects to harvest 4.5 tons of rice from his one hectare plot each time he plants. Now that’s a lot of nasi goreng!

When the rice is ready to be sold, Jamali and his friends don’t take it directly to the markets; instead, it’s sold to a processing plant in Ujong Tanjong, from where it is eventually purchased by local markets and stores. This rice is known as Breuh Gampong. They noted that while the Ramos rice is very popular, it is actually shipped into town from Medan. Therefore, “If people would like to support the local community, they should ask for Breuh Gampong,” Jamali and his friends said with a smile.

And if people would really like to support these rice farmers, Jamali and his colleagues are inviting NGO workers to help them harvest their fields in late November. Hopefully, harvesting will be a great opportunity to gain an even better understanding into the lives of rice farmers and to give participants a deeper appreciation for Meulaboh’s favorite little grain.